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Grown-up getaway: Ashland Hills Hotel

Now that school has started, this is a great time to get away with your partner to toast another great summer. Autumn travel has the advantages of providing less crowded hotels and restaurants, and off-season hotel deals are the norm. Recently, my husband and I enjoyed a getaway to Ashland, Oregon for a romantic, yet still adventurous, stay at Ashland Hills Hotel.

Ashland hills hotel

For us, this getaway was a staycation: Ashland is our hometown. But this small Southern Oregon town is full of character–and more importantly, great entertainment venues and dining options–making it an ideal grown-up getaway for anyone within driving distance.

You won’t lack for quality lodging options in Ashland, ranging from quaint B&Bs to luxury escapes. For our most recent getaway, we tried Ashland Hills Hotel, which hits upon a perfect middle ground. This elegant property used to be nothing special until bought by the same folks who run several top-notch Rogue Valley hotels, including one of my favorites, the historic Ashland Springs Hotel. Knowing this boosted my confidence that we’d be in good hands at Ashland Hills Hotel, and we certainly were!

Ashland-hills

The hotel is located on the south side of Ashland, placing it on the opposite side of downtown but adjacent to some of the area’s best hiking and outdoor recreation. From this location, it’s easy to get to Emigrant Lake, Mt. Ashland, and Crater Lake, and you’re still only about five minutes by car from downtown Ashland.

The renovated lobby is spacious, airy, and calming, and our king bed room overlooking the pool was also generously sized. We had the usual amenities, such as coffee and tea service, and a mini-fridge, plus there are additional on-site amenities that really up the value, such as tennis courts and free bikes to use. Free WiFi and parking was a nice touch as well, both of which I no longer assume will be granted at higher-end hotels. The entire feel of Ashland Hills Hotel is what I’d call ‘gently retro’. It’s not over-the-top, but the retro furnishings, colors, and woodwork are tasteful and appealing.

ashland-hills-hotel

The continental breakfast set out on the Mezzzanine is standard…nothing amazing here, but a good value for a free breakfast and in a nice setting away from the lobby with plenty of seating.

What to do in Ashland:

Early fall is a great time to visit Ashland. The weather is still warm, which means couples can take full advantage of the many hiking and biking trails in and near the city limits, SUP or kayak on Emigrant Lake, or book a whitewater rafting trip. The downtown sector of Ashland is entirely pedestrian-friendly, with interesting shops and eateries lining Ashland Street and Main and the downtown square.

Walk through Lithia Park: this downtown park is vibrant in fall, and even in September, before the leaves change color, it’s a sanctuary of leafy green goodness. Walk among the ponds, and be sure to venture further up the park past the children’s playground to see the many acres beyond the lawns and formal gardens.

Ashland-Oregon

Hike or bike the White Rabbit: This network of trails and single track snake through the hills overlooking Ashland, and are accessible at the end of Ashland Loop Road or Park Street. Lots of signage within this hiking area ensures you won’t get lost (just stay on trails to avoid poison oak).

Take in an Oregon Shakespeare Festival production: Ashland is famous for its OSF, and tickets are often discounted after school starts. Take in a show (Shakespeare or otherwise) in the outdoor theater before the season is over. Note that many other smaller theaters churn out good productions in and around Ashland, too. Consider looking into what’s playing at the Caberet in Ashland or the Craterian in Medford.

Go wine tasting: The Rogue Valley boosts over 30 wineries, many of them award-winning. Venture north and drive along the Applegate Wine Trail or the Upper Rogue Wine Trail, or try some local Ashland area wineries like Weisinger, Bella Fiore, or Pebblestone.

Southern-oregon

Dine anywhere downtown: Seriously, you can’t go wrong. Our favorite dining options on the square or downtown  include Amuse or Larks (fine dining), Standing Stone (brew pub), Liquid Assets (wine bar), Smithfields (locally sourced) or Brickroom (killer cocktails), and Sesame (Asian fusion). For brunch, look no further than Morning Glory.

Indulge at Waterstone Spa: Waterstone is part of the hotel group that runs several top-notch hotels in the area, including Ashland Hills Hotel, which means it’s easy to combine a stay with a treatment here. We opted for foot soaks for a quick but refreshing service following a short hike in the area as part of Ashland Hills Hotel’s Wild Pacific Crest Trail package.

Walk along part of the PCT: Speaking of which, the PCT runs right past Ashland near the Mt. Ashland recreation area and Pilot Rock. This is a great area to take a day hike, even if you won’t be trekking the trail from start to finish. We like to hike a few miles when we can, accessing the trail from the Mt. Ashland access road off I-5.

As we disclose whenever applicable, our stay at Ashland Hills Hotel was complimentary, for the purpose of review. All dining and activities in Ashland were at our expense.

 

 

Ashland Centennial Ice Skating Rink

If you’ll be traveling along I-5 this winter season, you’ll need a festive place to stop and let the kids play. Our pick: Ashland Oregon’s Rotary Centennial Ice Skating Rink, located outdoors adjacent to lovely Lithia Park.

ashland-ice-skating

Located near the Oregon/California border, Ashland is a vibrant town best known for its Shakespeare Festival and university campus, but families will find much to enjoy outdoors as well. In addition to the cheery, community-centric ice rink, Lithia Park (located just past the Plaza on the main strip), is beautiful at any time of year; the extensive walking trails and playground are accessible in winter as well as summer. Purchase hot cocoa and other snacks at the counter next to the rink, and plan on a great meal at one of the town’s many restaurants before or after. Definitely spend a whole afternoon between the ice skating rink and the adjacent playground and park, followed by a nice meal out. Be sure to bundle up!

Distance from the nearest interstate: Three minutes from I-5.

Hours: Open seven days a week from mid-November through March. View a complete schedule listing specific skating times.

Ticket Prices: $4.00/adult, $3.25/children (skate rental $2.50 extra per person)

Dining options: Dining options in downtown Ashland abound; our favorite for families is Martolli’s pizza, located just blocks away at the end of the Plaza.

Website: Centennial Ice Skating Rink

Phone: 541-488-5340 (best way to contact rink personnel during business hours)

Directions: From I-5, take exit 19 toward Ashland, merging onto S. Valley View Rd. Turn left at OR-99 S/Rogue Valley Hwy 99 N, then continue to follow OR-99 S (Main) to Wilburn Way. Turn right onto Wilburn and follow it past the Plaza to Lithia Park.

Things To Do
Ashland

Best ski towns: Ashland, Oregon

A friendly community with a small-town yet academic atmosphere, Ashland, Oregon makes our list of Best Ski Towns despite the fact that it’s a full 20-minute commute from the slopes. What it lacks in proximity to powder it more than makes up for in charm, family-friendly shops and restaurants, and seasonal events, making it impossible to exclude. Located directly off I-5 in Southern Oregon and known for its vineyards, organic culinary scene, and Shakespearean festival (more on that below), Ashland is the most mild-weathered, cultured ski town we know.

mt-ashland

Where to ski: I’m biased, as Mt. Ashland Ski Area is our home ski resort, but due to its small size and refreshing price point, it truly is a wonderful place for families. Mt. Ashland’s motto is, ‘It’s steeper here’, and they mean it! The runs are steep, but they’re not too long, allowing families to feel comfortable letting older kids and teens do some exploring. Mt. Ashland’s historic lodge is old school: the roaring fires and wood-cut benches are the real deal. (Sack lunches are welcomed, though the counter service restaurant serves a mean veggie burger, too.) You’ll find a ski and board rental shop and repair shop next to the lodge, reasonably priced (that seems to be a theme) lessons, and kids six and under ski or board for free.

Where to stay: Mt. Ashland doesn’t boast overnight accommodations, but thanks to Ashland’s world-famous Shakespearean festival, the town has no shortage of wonderful places to stay. If you plan to spend most of your time on the slopes, stay at the base of the Mt. Ashland access road at Callahan’s Mountain Lodge, but if you plan to spend any length of time exploring Ashland proper, I recommend staying in walking distance at boutique (and historically preserved) Ashland Springs Hotel or more economically at the Best Western Bard’s Inn, one of the nicest of its brand. Many B&B options also line the streets, and home rentals are usually available via HomeAway.

Where to eat: If you opt for a hotel room, no worries: given the culinary fame of this town, you won’t mind the lack of a kitchen! With kids, I recommend the filling (and innovative) breakfast options at either Dragonfly or Munchies. For an apres ski dinner, head to the cozy fireside dining room upstairs at Alex’s.

What to do when not on the slopes: Right in town, you’ll want to stop at the Ashland Centennial Ice Rink for a spin around this outdoor arena (across from gorgeous-in-all-seasons Lithia Park), before warming up at ScienceWorks Hands’ On Museum. You’ll also want to set aside time for some quaint shopping; even the kids will enjoy it, given the number of great toy and book stores. If your kids are old enough to appreciate great theater (and are able to stay awake after a day of skiing) evening tickets to a show at Ashland’s Oregon Shakespeare Festival (ongoing in their Globe and indoor theaters) are a must.

How to get here: From either CA or WA, take I-5 north or south. If flying, fly into Medford International Airport (MFR), located 15 miles north of Ashland.

Read more Best Ski Town picks!

How to experience boutique wine in the Northwest

With over 18 viticulture regions in Oregon alone, the Pacific Northwest has gained a reputation for growing wine grapes and producing great wine. To date, however, the vast majority of Oregon and Washington wine production is small-batch, grown on boutique estates. For wine aficionados used to frequenting large, well-known wineries in California, Tuscany or France, the difference in experience is significant. Those seeking out boutique wineries in the Northwest will discover a world of hands-on winemaking, with winemakers attached to their grapes and the land they’re produced on, will discover wines no one else knows about, and will have unaccustomed access to winery owners.

Where to go for Northwest wine:

With over 700 wineries in Oregon and over 800 in Washington, choices are plentiful, but a wine weekend is best focused on one of four regions. In Oregon, the best-known option is to head to the Willamette Valley, where Pinot Noir reigns king. The wineries here are among the oldest in the state, with heritage winemaking over several generations. Take a tour with Grape Escape to make the most of your visit, and stop for dining in Newberg or McMinnville and consider an overnight stay at the Allison Inn and Spa or a more relaxed yurt stay (yes, yurt!) at Bradley Vineyards.

A few hours down I-5, Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley has emerged on the wine scene in the past ten years, producing wines that do well in hotter, drier climates. Take a day to enjoy the Applegate Wine Trail or Table Rock Wine Trail, and consider a stay in Ashland or Jacksonville to round out your weekend. South Stage Cellars in historic Jacksonville offers an excellent selection of local wine, as does Old 99 Road Wine Shop in Medford. For sweeping views of the Rogue Valley, wine taste and dine at Dancin’ Vineyards or Kriselle Cellars.

In Washington State, Walla Walla plays host to some of the top wineries, with the Walla Walla Wine Alliance bringing them all together. Stroll the quaint downtown sector of this small city, poking into various tasting rooms and wine bars. Take a wine tour or pair your trip with a visit to Washington’s other major wine region, along the Columbia River Gorge. This wine region is ideally situated to pair with a city visit to Portland or a weekend away in Hood River.

Types of wine to look for at boutique Northwest wineries this coming year: counter-culture chardonnay, MRV, and Grenache Blanc (as opposed to blends).

How to find boutique wines during a city vacation:

Not heading to wine country, but want to discover boutique wine in Portland or Seattle? Start with urban wineries, which typically buy grapes from around the region, or consider joining a localized wine club. Cellar 503 is based in Portland and ships Oregon wine to its members monthly. Cellar 503’s tasting room in the city offers a place for members to taste, congregate to share wine news, and educate.

In Washington state, it’s possible meander along an urban wine trail right in Seattle, or taste the best the state has to offer at Bottlehouse or The Tasting Room.

Wine festivals and competitions not to miss:

Serious about wine tasting and want the biggest bang for your buck? Head to a Northwest-focused wine competition. Topping the list: The Oregon Wine Experience, held each August in Jacksonville Oregon. 65 Oregon wineries will congregate in one place during one week, with winemaker’s dinners, award competitions, tastings and wine university classes. The Northwest Food and Wine Festival, held in Portland, is another sure bet, as is Taste NW’s Seattle Wine Awards.

However you experience the Pacific Northwest boutique wines, you can expect to be greeted in tasting rooms by owners (and probably their dogs), shouldn’t be surprised if you’re invited to tour a barrel room or two, and will be delighted by low tasting fees and affordable bottle prices. Cheers!

Oregon lake resorts off the beaten path

Last month, our teenager hiked the Oregon section of the Pacific Crest Trail. As we followed along on his journey through Oregon, assisting with food drops and other needs, we discovered a new side of our home state we hadn’t yet explored! Throughout the rural mountain regions of the Beaver State, many Oregon lake resorts are located far off the main interstate or even paved highways. They offer tranquility, beauty, and rustic yet comfortable amenities. Here are our favorites!

oregon-lake-resorts

Shelter Cove Resort

Located on beautiful Odell Lake near Willamette Pass, Shelter Cove Resort offers a marina, cabin rentals, a friendly camp store, and a pretty campground. It gets busy during the summer months with fishing derbies and other outdoorsy events, but when we visited during a crowded weekend, it still felt relaxed and peaceful. There’s boating on this lake, but mostly of the fishing variety, so there’s not a lot of noise. To get to Shelter Cove, take Highway 58 from Eugene or Highway 97 to Highway 58 from Bend.

What to do nearby: Adjacent to Shelter Cove is the Oregon Skyline Trail, which connects the lake to Windigo Pass, above Crater Lake. A five mile hike up the OST from Shelter Cove takes hikers along lovely Whitefish Creek to Diamond View Lake, a tiny alpine lake accessible only by trail. It’s a tough hike (and a round-trip of 1o miles), but well-worth the long day. Just bring a picnic lunch!

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Shelter Cove is PCT-friendly, offering a designated area for hikers with outlets, WiFi, and water. You can also get a PCT campsite in the campground for $10.

Elk Lake Resort

Like Odell Lake, Elk Lake is tucked away in the heart of Oregon, this time north of Mt. Bachelor. The resort offers one of the best day use and swimming beaches of the Oregon lake resorts we visited, and a great little restaurant that serves the best pulled pork sandwich my son says he’s ever eaten! There are camping cabins, full-sized cabins (more like condos) and a rustic campground. There is a marina, and boat rentals are available, as well as water ‘toy’ rentals like stand-up paddle boards. To get to Elk Lake, take Century Drive north of Bend.

What to do nearby: Take time to check out all the smaller Cascade lakes along Century Drive, north of towering Mt. Bachelor. Or, rent mountain bikes and hit the trails in and around Bend in the Deschutes National Forest.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Definitely have your hiker stop for a meal here, and you can send packages here if you need a food drop. Elk Lake isn’t far from Bend, so friends can meet you pretty easily.

odell-lake

Hyatt Lake Resort

Located in Southern Oregon above the Greensprings, Hyatt lake Resort is a large, boater-friendly lake with several campgrounds and a rustic resort. Easily accessible from Ashland Oregon on Highway 66, Hyatt Lake’s small restaurant and cabin rentals are located on the west side of the lake, which is quieter than the day use and camping areas on the east. This is definitely a sleepy place, which is just the way most people who visit like it. The restaurant also sells take-out pizza, so if you get a cabin, you’ll be set for the night!

What to do nearby: Check out the historic Greensprings Inn, just down the road, and learn about the early automobile road that winds through the mountains here. Drive down Highway 66 to take a short day hike on Grizzly Peak, or head all the way to Ashland to spend a day at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival or at Lithia Park. You’re only about 30 miles away.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: There are walk-in tent sites at the campground across the lake from the resort, if you’re not staying there. And the Hyatt Lake Resort restaurant will give out free ice cream cones to PCT hikers!

Ollalie Lake Resort:

Located in a very remote part of Central Oregon and accessible only by forest service road, Ollalie Lake Resort is where to go for a completely tech-free stay. There’s no cell service or WiFi anywhere at the lake. To get there, it’s easiest to start at Salem, and take Highway 22 to National Forest Road 46. Once there, get a cabin or yurt and plan to simply stay and enjoy your wilderness surroundings. There is a small store, and boat rentals.

What to do nearby: You can easily access the PCT here and get to a few more remote lakes such as Jude Lake and Head Lake, but since Ollalie is already so remote, the best thing to do is take in the view!

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: There is no ability to mail food packages here, and no accommodations for PCT hikers (though you can check on cabin availability). This is best as a ‘hit the store and keep going’ spot!

Lost Lake Resort:

Located above Mt. Hood, Lost Lake is one of the most beautiful in an area teeming with beautiful lakes! Owned by the same folks who run Cascade Huts (which we loved during a winter visit), Lost Lake Resort offers downright upscale amenities compared to the other lakes featured here, but has prices to match. Their cabin rentals are very nice, but on the expensive side, and they have lodge rooms as well as a store filled with essentials. Like on the other lakes, you can rent boats and other water toys. From I-84 in the Columbia Gorge, head south on Highway 201/281 to the lake.

What to do nearby: Lost Lake Resort is within easy driving distance of Mt. Hood and Government Camp, which has fun summer activities offered in and near the ski resorts, such as mountain biking. Day hiking is also popular in this area.

If you are a PCT hiker or assisting one: Most PCT hikers don’t stop here, since Government Camp is so close (and has more amenities). But Lost Lake Resort is a great place for PCT trail angels (or people assisting hikers) to stay, if you book early!

Do you have a favorite Oregon lake resort?

Photo credit

Cliff Creek Cellars: family-friendly vineyard and tasting room

Located in the heart of Southern Oregon’s wine region, Cliff Creek Cellars is a family-friendly vineyard that makes for a great stop for families vacationing in Ashland Oregon or enjoying fishing, hiking, or rafting along the Rogue River. Surprised? Don’t be! More and more wineries are becoming family-friendly destinations, and Cliff Creek is a prime example.

family-friendly winery

What makes Cliff Creek great for families?

Location:

Cliff Creek is easy to access from I-5, making it a great alternative to a road-side rest stop. And if you’re not traveling I-5 en route elsewhere, it’s easily woven into the fabric of a family day outdoors in Southern Oregon. As part of the Upper Rogue Wine Trail, Cliff Creek is situated adjacent to the base of Table Rock outside of Gold Hill, making it the perfect post-hike rejuvenation spot. Or perhaps you’ve rafted the Upper Rogue (meandering nearby) or fished the morning away. No matter what your outdoor fun in this picturesque valley, Cliff Creek is nearby as an end-of-day oasis.

Cliff Creek cellars

Setting:

Cliff Creek’s low-key atmosphere, partnered with plenty of outdoor space, makes it naturally family-friendly. When we visited on a sunny Sunday afternoon in May, we were far from the only patrons. However, because we could spread out along the casual picnic tables dotting the tidy lawn, no one else cared that we’d brought along two energy-filled kids. In fact, we were greeted with smiles from Cliff Creek’s staff and a wag from Max, the resident dog. While the kids ran out into the open space adjacent to the tasting room to explore the water feature and pond, sculptures and vineyards, we settled nearby to enjoy Cliff Creek’s tasting flight.

The wine is excellent, but truth be told, we’d come for the scenery and ambiance. Cliff Creek sets out lawn games for kids (and adults) to enjoy, and if the kids get bored, someone is on-hand to bring out corks so they can have ‘Cliff Creek cork races’ down the small creek leading from the water feature. Kids are welcome to explore the vineyards (you can easily see them from the lawn), and additional entertainment comes in the form of chasing the very willing Max around the property.

Cliff Creek dog

Snacks and drinks:

While Cliff Creek is certainly a full-scale winery, the emphasis here is on a social experience. Groups enjoying tastings happily mingle, and for the kids, root beer or water is always on-hand.  We ordered one of Cliff Creek’s cheese plates, and were happily surprised by a house-made charcuterie spread that fed all of us. Guests are welcome to bring picnics to the winery; it’s a great place to eat and sip some wine after a family hike.

Cliff Creek tasting room

Distance from the interstate:

15 minutes from I-5.

Cost:

A flight of tasting wine is $10 per person. Cheese and charcuterie plates range from $8-$11. Bottles of wine, at the time of our visit, ranged from $15-$35.

Hours of operation:

Thurs-Mon from 12 pm to 5 pm

Directions:

Cliff Creek is located at 1015 McDonough Road Gold Hill, Oregon. From the Gold Hill I-5 exit, take OR-234/Sams Valley Highway. Turn left on Ramsey Road, then right on Sams Valley Road, and finally another  left onto McDonough Road to the vineyard.

 

 

Oregon Farm stay with kids: Willow Witt Ranch

A farm stay with kids is an amazing way to experience a destination! Not only are farm stays often affordable, they allow families the opportunity to meet locals, learn about sustainable agriculture, and have plenty of space to play and roam. Many farm stays are located within easy driving distance of wonderful family travel destinations.

willow-witt-ranch-farm-stay

This summer, we’ve had the opportunity to experience two farm stays, each on opposite ends of the continent. Right after Memorial Day Weekend at the start of summer, we stayed a night at Southern Oregon’s Willow Witt Ranch. Willow Witt is located only 30 minutes from Ashland, Oregon, perfectly situated for any family visiting the area for its river rafting, mountain lakes, or Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Tip: use Farm Stay US to find kid-friendly farm stays on your travel route.

farm-stay-with-kids

Willow Witt sits on a high mountain meadow in the heart of the Siskiyou Mountains, and is a working high altitude goat, pig, and chicken farm. Willow Witt’s two owners are passionate about being stewards of the land they’re lucky enough to live and work on, and their diligence is evident in the care of their animals, their dedication to organic, free-range, and pasture-fed ranching, and their friendly, hands-on approach.

Staying at Willow Witt:

Families have their pick between farmhouse accommodations at Willow Witt’s Farmhouse Studio (sleeping six), the three-bedroom Meadow House (sleeping 10), or campground accommodations a short walking trail away. The indoor accommodations both include full kitchens, and farm-fresh breakfast. The campground offers tent camping sites or walled canvas tents. The camping sites are rustic; while some spaces are cleared, others are not well marked. We likened the campground to backpacking spaces.  Willow Witt lists 12 sites, which is accurate, though some are very close together; I would venture the campground would serve 3-4 separate groups well, or one large group.

willow-witt-tent-cabins

Willow Witt’s walled tents are nearly ‘glamping’ status: they come furnished with beds, linens, and other furniture, and a wood stove.  All camping families (walled or tent) have the use of an amazing outdoor kitchen (run with propane gas) and outdoor wood stove. Onsite bathrooms with full plumbing (flush toilets, sinks, and showers) are clean, light, and comfortable, and for the more adventurous type, outdoor showers are also onsite.

willow-witt-outdoor-kitchen

There’s no electricity at the camping area, but the Willow Witt owners have thoughtfully outfitted the bathrooms and kitchen with lanterns, and the kitchen is stocked with dishes, cups, cooking utensils, and pots and pans. Several tables and chairs sit outside the covered kitchen area. The campground is located just up the hill from the ranch site, approximately a quarter mile from the barn. We enjoyed the Willow Witt ranch dogs keeping us company at the campground.

Farm activities and service projects:

We were lucky enough to experience Willow Witt with my son’s 3rd grade class. Willow Witt is known for their educational projects, and during our stay, we were able to help owner Suzanne with a wetlands project. We helped protect the watershed by working in the meandering creeks in the ranch meadows for a few hours. We also experienced an extensive farm tour. Families visiting the farm solo are also given a tour, and can opt to help with morning chores as available.

wetlands-project

Three loop trails depart and return to Willow Witt, and additional hiking is a short drive away at nearby Grizzly Peak. Families can drive into Ashland in 30 minutes, or to boat or swim at Emigrant Lake in 20 minutes. Serious bird watchers come from all over for the birding at Willow Witt, and mountain biking is available nearby as well.

willow-witt-solar-power

If you want to have time to enjoy the peacefulness of the ranch as well as enjoy local activities, I suggest booking at least a three night stay. If you’re staying a shorter period of time, plan to plant yourself at the ranch and take full advantage of your immediate surroundings!

Willow Witt as a working ranch:

willow-witt-pigs

Willow Witt does have a ranch store, where their organic, sustainable, and cruelty-free CSA meat and dairy products are sold. They are also represented weekly at the Ashland and Medford farmers markets. Willow Witt also books packing excursions in the mountains, using their own pack goats.

working-ranch

Rates:

Camping starts at $40 per night, which is an amazing bargain when you consider the use of the outdoor kitchen and clean bathrooms. Walled tents are $125 per night (May through October) and sleep up to four. The studio and farmhouse rent for $180 and $225, respectively, in the high season. They are available year round. The value for all accommodations is astounding.

outdoor-shower

Directions:

Willow Witt is located off Oregon’s Dead Indian Memorial Road by Grizzly Peak. From Ashland, visitors take Highway 66 to Dead Indian Memorial to Shale City Road. Do not use GPS, but rather follow these directions. GPS will lead you astray!

On being a skiing family: From the first green run to a family ski vacation

Recently, I read a Facebook update from a friend and fellow travel writer that declared something along the lines of, “Third time’s a charm! On our third ski vacation, we finally fell in love with skiing.”

This happy statement made me reflect on my own family’s ski ‘journey’, which started perhaps a bit differently than most. Unlike many parents, we considered ourselves a ‘skiing family’ even before our kids could ski. My husband and I had both grown up with the sport in the Tahoe area, myself racing slalom at the state level through high school. There was nothing I loved more than skiing, and we couldn’t wait to share this winter pastime with our boys.

ski-family

 

We started each son on skis at age three, which turned out to be a worthwhile yet exhausting endeavor. By the time our third son was born, we were a full-fledged preschool-and-toddler ski family, with tiny Rossis, boots, snowsuits, goggles, mittens, and other paraphanilia littering the back of our car. We hauled all our gear up to our local ski lodge at Mt. Ashland, Oregon, in a huge duffel bag, with stumbling children (usually with runny noses and lost gloves) trailing in our wake. We set up a port-a-crib in the lodge for our baby, and my husband and I took turns taking laps.

Those early years were fun, but rough. My mom, the boys’ grandma, was actually in the trenches the most, as the most patient ski instructor of our group. Without her, I’m not sure my kids would have mastered the ‘pizza wedge’. As they grew, we continued to teach them on our own during the preschool years, and they followed us like ducklings around our local mountain. We signed the boys up for weekly lessons with our local ski racing club when they hit the required age, and the consistent, dedicated instruction took them from competent intermediate skiers to experts.

skiing with kids

Perhaps because we’ve been on the mountain almost every weekend of every winter of our boys’ young lives, we never had that ‘aha moment’. We never experienced that single day in which we said, ‘This is it! We get it now.’ Instead, it just seemed to happen without our noticing, until one season, we were all skiing blacks together and I realized I wasn’t wiping anyone’s nose or helping anyone take off their snowsuit to go potty or sweating in my jacket as I  knocked the snow off someone’s little boot and guided it into their binding. After years in the trenches, we could all, as a family, ski any run of any resort…together.

squaw valley for expert skiers

Sometimes, I’m asked whether it was ‘worth it’ to teach my kids to ski so young, when the process was still more like hefting sacks of potatoes than a rewarding day in the outdoors. My answer: absolutely. By declaring ourselves ‘a skiing family’ before we actually were one, I fulfilled the prophecy. And there’s always more to learn. Now, we take family lessons at major resorts from Tahoe to Colorado to learn more skills, my 5th grader is trying to perfect his 360, and my teen skiers are considering backcountry skiing and avalanche courses. I imagine when they have kids, they’ll start as ‘skiing families’ too.

Is your family still working up to that first blue run? Read this account of a family finding that ‘aha moment’ during a private lesson at Vail.

What to expect from a ski vacation during COVID

Skiing and snowboarding families should expect some differences at ski resorts this year. Ready to try a ski vacation during COVID? Read on!

Ski vacation during COVID: what to expect!

The good news: ski vacations are inherently safe, since they’re outdoors with plenty of fresh air and exercise. Families can pod together easily at ski resorts, and many resorts are expects a La Nina year! Here’s what to expect from a ski vacation during COVID:

Masks in lift lines and in lodges:

This is easy…you and your family are probably already wearing Buffs or other face coverings. If not, outfit your family with any type of balaclava, buff, bandana, or ski mask. If it’s a warm day, simply wear your face covering around your neck when you’re on the slopes. And be sure to check out ski and snowboard in Idaho for fantastic vacation ideas. 

Chair lift rides with your crew only:

Again, no big deal, since most chairs seat 4-6 people, and you probably ride up the slopes with your family anyway. Could this mean longer than usual lift lines, as lifties are required to load some chairs with fewer people on them? Yes, so be prepared to rest your legs a bit longer than you might like.

Some lodges closed for the season:

This one can be seen as a bummer, or as an opportunity: some ski resorts will be limiting lodge services. For instance, Mt. Ashland Ski Area‘s historic lodge will be closed for warming, lift ticket purchases, and food services, and will only be open for families to pick up rentals or meet for lessons.

This means that skiing and snowboarding may remind parents of the slopes of their childhoods, when a ski day did not include a $15 burger or ramen bar at lunch. Families will need to tailgate, bring packed sandwiches to eat on the chair, or plan more half-day experiences.

Walk-up ticket sales will be limited:

Most resorts, such as Squaw Valley, will limit walk-up tickets, in order to better control how many guests are on the slopes any given day. Day tickets will still be available, but they will need to be purchased in advance on the website. If day-of tickets are still available online, they may still be purchased.

fOther resorts, such as most Vail Resorts, plan to use a reservation system directly limiting the number of guests per day. This reservation system may be lifted later in the season. At Northstar California, for example, day passes won’t be sold at all until after a soft start for season passholders from opening day until mid-December.

This is the year to splurge on that annual pass:

Because of reservation systems and limits on walk-up sales, the best way to ensure your ski vacation during COVID–and the best way to plan in advance–is to purchase annual passes at your favorite resort. Annual passholders will be granted the most access and receive the most perks this ski season.

Are you ready for the 2020-21 ski season? Prep now by waxing and tuning your own skis with our DIY guide!

Unique Oregon golf resort: Silvies Valley Ranch

Located on the Eastern Oregon frontier, Silvies Valley Ranch offers a vacation experience unique to anything I’ve done before. Guests enter the 220 square miles of this working cattle and goat ranch and make their way to the Retreat, Links and Spa…a tucked-away resort in the pines with unparalleled ranch views. Your first stop is at the Gate House, where you’re met by friendly resort staff, charcuterie and drinks, and the chance to surrender your car for the duration; from this moment forward, you’ll be exploring the ranch via your personally-assigned golf cart.

From the comfort of luxury cabin or lodge room accommodations, you can ponder your many options of activities while on-site. Silvies is not a dude ranch, with all-inclusive activities on the ranch, though it feels as isolated as one. And it’s not strictly a golf resort, because guests can explore the ranch grounds, too. It’s an interesting hybrid of both.

Perfect book-reading spot right out front of the cabins.

Dinners are fairly formal affairs with a nightly eight-course pre-set menu prepared by talented chef Damon Jones, eaten at the communal Ranch Table. Families, I’m told, have the option to eat a la carte during the summer season, should they not wish to spend so long at the meal. Definitely enjoy the Ranch Table experience at least once or twice during a stay, however, as this is where Silvies’ local, organic beef and chevon (goat) is featured best.

Silvies’ famous sourdough bread.

Before each nightly meal, we loved lingering at the impressively-stocked ranch house bar for a pre-dinner cocktail. The bartending and wait staff were all excellent, and I would challenge any guest to come up with any drink they can’t make.

Excellent Old Fashioned.

Note: breakfast and lunch are also offered at the ranch house, as well as lunch at the Hideout, the golf clubhouse. There isn’t any other nearby dining option, due to the remoteness of Silvies, so plan accordingly. Breakfast could easily be made in the room or cabin.

Activities at Silvies:

The main attraction at the Retreat at Silvies is golf. We’re not avid golfers, but we could see at a glance that Silvies’ four courses were different than most. They’re located on a remote and rugged stretch of high desert; you’ll be instantly reminded of Scottish courses, if you’ve been. The courses range from 18 hole to a shorter Par 3 course over 600 acres, and thanks to the remoteness of Silvies’ location, crowds aren’t an issue. Families and beginners are welcome. Every guest we spoke to raved about their golf experience. Best of all, you are offered a ‘goat caddy’ when you golf here: yes, trained goats really do carry your clubs!

Golf at Silvies.

During our three-day stay, we wanted to learn a lot about the ranch side of Silvies, so we signed up for a ranch eco-tour. We were picked up in a Razor and escorted around the ranch’s 120,000 acres, learning about the scope of the cattle and goat business, the ranch’s multi-generational history, and the current owners’ plans for the future (the Campbell family has owned it for the last six years). Several historic homesteads are still in residence on the property, so we saw those, as well as cows getting ready to calve, antelope running, deer grazing, and even elk. We learned about the conservation that’s important at Silvies, such as the restoration of the land’s riparian landscape; slowly, the beavers that had been plentiful before the fur trapping industry of the 1800s are returning.

Polaris Razor eco tour.

We also went shooting at the ranch’s firing range and ‘goat herding’ with a ranch hand. For the latter, we went out to find one of the three 1000-head goat herds on the property and walked among them for a while, talking to the Peruvian goat herder hired by Silvies and meeting the guard and herding dogs in residence.

Also offered: horseback riding, mountain biking, wagon riding, hiking and fishing. Hiking and biking trails are still limited, with plans to build out this part of the ranch.

Rocking Heart Spa at Silvies:

For us, our spa day was our favorite at Silvies. The spa is located directly across from the cabins and main lodge, and houses a lap pool, climbing wall, and exercise room in addition to spa services. Silvies is still in the process of fine-tuning this space, so hours are not always consistent, we found.

Spa services range from multiple massage offerings to facials and mani-pedis, plus a hair salon. We loved the facials we received, which were a relaxing 120 minutes of pampering. We enjoyed the relaxation room and spa and sauna in each locker room, too. Plan to spend a whole afternoon at the Rocking Heart Spa!

Lodging at Silvies:

We were situated in a two-bedroom luxury cabin, which included a kitchenette with a very well-stocked mini-bar, large ice machine, microwave, Keurig, and plates and cups galore. You also get an entire cupboard of snacks (for purchase) and a stocked wine fridge (with a wine list and prices). We loved the Western decor throughout, the cozy living room space with fireplace and a huge TV, and the spacious bathrooms (one off each bedroom). Best of all, a hot tub outside! Our only wish: we would have loved a porch or patio, though the views out the wide living room windows were amazing.

There are also one-bedroom cabins and cabin rooms, as well as ranch house rooms (which are actually located across the drive from the ranch house. Find rates here.

Getting to Silvies:

This Oregon golf resort really is remote. It’s about 45 minutes from Burns, Oregon, and it’s best to follow the directions on the ranch website; GPS will lead you astray. You’re about 2.5 hours from Bend or Boise, and about 5.5 hours from Medford/Ashland.

Disclosure: we stayed at Silvies as guests of the resort, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.