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Visiting Peru with Vantage Adventures

While visiting Peru, I saw all the bucket-list sites I planned to see: Machu Picchu, the Incan towns of the Sacred Valley, and beautiful Cusco. I hiked, I took hundreds of photos, and I took in the colorful marketplaces Peru is known for. But in addition, I saw and experienced things I had no way of knowing I wanted—perhaps even needed—to see and do.

vantage-adventures

I met jewelers at Arte Magico employing skilled workers from outside the city, a spiritual healer of the Incan people, weavers from the traditional town of Chinchero, boys from the squatter neighborhoods on the hillsides who work at the public cemetery outside school hours to help provide for their family, and school children and teachers from the isolated highlands. I tasted the traditional food and drinks of Peru: chicha, cuy, quinoa soup, chicha morada, and pisco sour. I was invited into a family’s home, and was able to talk with locals about the issues that matter to them: their work, their families, and their politics.

visit-peru

I was able to do all this because I was traveling with Vantage Adventures. Vantage is an established luxury small group travel company known for its European river cruises and five-star travel experiences, and in their new division of Vantage Adventures, they’re adding active, outdoor and adventure elements while retaining the type of rich cultural interactions I described above. I’ve traveled with several small group tour companies in places ranging from Alaska to the Dominican Republic, and none have offered the depth of immersion into a country as Vantage (though some have come close).

The Vantage Difference:

So how does Vantage do all this? There’s a magical ingredient in Vantage Adventures’ itineraries I’m going to call the Vantage Difference. In our itinerary of Peru, our Vantage Adventure Leader (head guide) Enrique went one step deeper into every stop.

 

When we were at Machu Picchu, he knew the history and archeological facts as well or better than any guide in the country. In Cusco (his hometown), he could show us the shops, restaurants, and ‘secret’ alleyways and side streets no one could have found on their own.

peru-weaving

While touring the city’s impressive cathedrals, he shared the story of his own family’s Catholicism as it related to his Andean heritage. When sampling local foods and drinks, he gave anecdotes about his own childhood memories of these foods, tying the life of a Peruvian to the tastes and textures. He peppered every sight with a layer of history and culture, so that we came away with an understanding of not just the ancient Incan history, but of current day Incan values, considerations, and current events.

weaving-co-op

Traveling with Vantage Adventures is like traveling with a local…because you are.

Need an example? I have dozens, but here’s one that stands out: after touring a weaving cooperative in the Sacred Valley, we stopped at a local chicha shop near Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley. Enrique translated the local chicha maker’s explanation of how to make this fermented corn drink, and we sampled it…all part of our tour. But afterward, he took us out to the courtyard behind the shop where he taught us to play a traditional Peruvian bar game (you toss weighted coins at a frog’s mouth for points…an equivalent to playing darts in a bar in the States).

visit-peru

While we played the game, he related his memory of playing ‘frog’ with his father and grandfather, and overhearing them discuss the dangers of the cocaine industry regime in Peru of that time. A few days later, Enrique told us, his grandfather had been shot and killed by the terrorists; his father—a policeman—was forced to withdraw into his home for his safety not long after.

Hearing this story while drinking this Peruvian drink and playing the game so many locals have enjoyed for centuries not only helped us to know Enrique better…it helped us connect present-day Peru to the past, and enabled us to better understand what Peruvians want for their future. This is an experience I could not have manufactured on my own, no matter how many guidebooks I read or sights I saw.

chicha-drink

Vantage peace of mind:

The day we flew into Peru, the rural towns outside the city of Cusco began a farmers’ strike. Apparently somewhat common, this strike blocked off the roads leading from Cusco to the Sacred Valley. As a result, our entire itinerary had to be changed around on the fly. Vantage took this development in stride, re-structuring our itinerary in a way that felt seamless (but I know took a lot of organization on their part). Once the strike had officially ended, we took one of the roads in question to head to Machu Picchu. Unexpectedly, a rowdy group of lingering strikers ambushed our bus on the narrow road, throwing rocks and yelling. They’d blockaded the road with stones and rubble. Our guides and bus driver quickly accessed the situation, spoke to locals, and drove us swiftly to safety. We went to Plan C (remember, we were already on Plan B) to find an alternative route, then to Plan D when that plan was rendered useless as well by additional blockades. In the end, they got us to our destination by accessing local dirt roads over the Andes. After a somewhat harrowing (but totally exciting) ride over the mountains, we arrived at our luxury hotel, ready for Machu Picchu. While countless other tourists were stranded in Cusco, we enjoyed a day without crowds.

casa-andina

If I had been traveling without Vantage, there’s no way I would have known of alternative routes past the blockades. I would have been stuck outside of the Sacred Valley along with most other tourists. In that moment, I realized that while safe and friendly, Peru is a country of some unknowns, best explored with a local guide who can navigate.

Vantage Cares:

Peru has endured many dictatorships and terrorist regimes, and is a relatively new country to democracy. As a result, it is still a developing country in many ways. Tourism is a primary industry, and while tourist dollars alone assist Peru significantly, I was happy to hear about Vantage Cares. This program, in place on all Vantage Adventures, donates funds as well as on-the-ground assistance to worthy causes in each country Vantage visits.

vantage-cares

In Peru, Vantage Cares sponsors a rural school about 50 minutes from Cusco. Vantage works directly with school administers to understand the needs of the school, then creates projects our local adventure guides can particulate in. We visited the school, which had just gotten a fresh coat of paint. The teachers and parents cooked us a big welcoming meal, and the students swarmed us, excited to see foreigners. They performed songs and showed us their favorite playground games, and we toured their classrooms. This visit was a true highlight of my trip.

vantage-cares

Thanks to my education of Peruvian culture and events from Enrique and my on-site visit for Vantage Cares, I came away from Peru with a far richer understanding and connection than I would have otherwise. 

How to visit Peru with Vantage:

I recommend a trip to Peru for any active family with school-aged or teen kids. It’s a country filled with diverse landscapes, outdoor adventure, rich culture, and lively cities. Select a trip to get started. Before you depart, be sure to check out our tips for travel in Peru.

vantage-cares

As I disclose whenever applicable, I went to Peru on a familiarization tour with Vantage for the purpose of review. Without these fact-finding missions, I would not be able to recommend travel options to my readers.

Why you should visit Peru with Vantage Adventures

My oh my: Which insulated water bottle to buy?!

At each season’s Outdoor Retailer show (where new products from outdoor and travel brands are showcased and introduced), one or two top travel trends always emerge. This summer, one of those trends was insulated water bottles. It started with HydroFlask, and now, it seems every water bottle company has their own version of a double-walled, vacuum-sealed, stainless steel water bottle. Which to buy for your next travel adventure? We’ll help you sort it out!

insulated-water-bottle

Which insulated water bottle to buy:

In addition to various sized water bottles, insulated water bottles come in various shapes and tend to serve various purposes, so we’ll break it down even further. In each category, I’m including all the brands I personally have used and tested. Are there others? Probably, but in my opinion, the following are the ones worthy of your purchase. All the bottles below are insulated, and all claim at least 12 hours of chill time (up to 24 hours).

Due to various sizes for each bottle, it’s hard to directly price-compare. I’ve linked to the lowest price for each type on Amazon. Affiliate links are present, which help fund Pit Stops for Kids at no added cost to you.

All-purpose insulated water bottles (various sizes):

Insulated-water-bottle

HydroFlask:

We’ll start with the original, a brand that originates from my home state. I do love HydroFlask and have many bottles cluttering my cabinets. They come in various sizes, from growlers to toddler-sized. For travel days, I like the 21-ounce HydroFlask with standard mouth opening, and my sons prefer the larger bottles with wide-mouth opening for sports and around the house. Where HydroFlask shines: high quality you can trust. Where HydroFlask fails: I have yet to find a HydroFlask lid/opening I like. Sorry, HydroFlask! The straw tops don’t always work, and the wide mouths without toppers can’t control water flow. The flip caps (mostly for hot beverages) is best, but still can leak.

Takeya:

Takeya is a relative newcomer to the insulated water bottle scene, though they’ve been in the water storage game for a while. The Takeya ThermoFlask is similar to the HydroFlask, but in my unscientific opinion, it’s lighter, narrower, and thinner. It’s also a little bit cheaper. Where Takeya shines: the size is ideal for slipping into a backpack side pocket, and the spout lid is awesome: you get a wide-mouth you can unscrew to put ice in, but a smaller opening to drink from. Where Takeya fails: it doesn’t keep drinks cold quite as long as HydroFlask.

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Camelbak:

There’s lots to love about Camelbak water bottles, and certainly this brand has come a long way from its days as solely a hydration bladder company. The Camelbak Eddy and Chute have been in our cupboards for a long time in their BPA-free plastic version, and now, like everyone else, Camelbak is making insulated versions. You can get an insulated Chute in 20 ounce or 40 ounce, with the same lid I’ve come to love in the plastic version: like the Takeya, it’s a narrow opening that opens and closes, with a wider opening for ice. You can also now get the Eddy in an insulated version, with the same bite valve as the plastic Eddy. Bite valves can be easier for kids to drink from, but bear in mind that they’re pressurized, so they can leak during car or air travel. Where Camelbak shines: we love that each bottle has a place to clip a carabiner to attach to a raft or backpack…they’re great outdoor bottles. Where Camelbak fails: we would love more sizes.

S’well:

I have fallen for S’well, probably due it its simplistic yet elegant design. S’well bottles come in two sizes (that we know of): 17 ounce and 25 ounce, and you can get a wide variety of unique patterns and colors. If you want to stand out, S’well may be for you. We also like the simple and narrow opening, for ease of drinking. Where S’well shines: the narrow bottles fit nicely in side pockets, and the openings are simplistic. Where S’well fails: there’s no way to attach the bottles to anything, and they’re pretty darn expensive. 

Klean Kanteen:

Klean Kanteen has been around a long time, much like HydroFlask, and has solid construction and design on its side. They make plenty of stainless steel bottles, but their insulated ones come in 16 ounce20 ounce, and 40 ounce, with a wide mouth. Where Klean Kanteen shines: clean design, solid color stories. Where Klean Kanteen fails: kind of boring.

Insulated bottles especially designed for hot beverages and insulated tumblers:

insulated-tumblers

Camelbak Forge: 

The Forge is a personal favorite of mine. What I love: the narrow but tall shape, which I can easily grasp in one hand, and the mouth opening, which features a locked position and a sipping position with a small bowl at the opening where coffee or tea can cool. It comes in 12 ounce or 16 ounce, in lots of sleek, metallic colors. Where Camelbak shines: the design is awesome. Where Camelbak fails: the design is complicated…if the multi-part lid breaks in any way, you’re toast.

Stanley Classic Vacuum Pint: 

Yes, it’s a pint glass, not a mug, but I love this Stanley offering so much, and use it for hot beverages so often, it needs to be included. If you want a rugged, classic design and color scheme without frills (and a low price to match), the Stanley vacuum pint is for you. There is a lid, which works quite well to keep liquid hot for longer periods, but it’s not totally enclosed. Stanley also makes a classic vacuum bottle, but I have not tested it. Where Stanley shines: simplistic, classic designs. Where Stanley fails: no updated color stories.

Note: Klean Kanteen and HydroFlask both have sipping lids designed to fit on their wide-mouth bottles to convert any insulated bottle to a hot beverage bottle.

New to the market in recent months are an onslaught of insulated tumblers, designed for commuting and home use. I’ve started to really like these, taking them in the car, to the lake, on picnics, and for day-to-day use at home.

SIC Cups: 

Use it for hot or cold beverages, I’m giving SIC a best-in-show here, because it keeps my drinks cold and hot longer than any other brand in this round-up. And it does this as a tumbler, with a plastic lid (vacuum-sealed) lid. They come in 20, 24, and 30 ounce models, and while expensive, SIC is worth it. Where SIC shines: there was ice unmelted in my cup 24 hours after I put it in there. Enough said. Where SIC fails: a SIC cup is expensive.

Takeya ThermoTumbler:

Like the Takeya ThermaFlask, their tumbler is affordable and fits nicely in the hand. Also like the ThermaFlask, it doesn’t keep beverages hot and cold quite as long as its competition. It comes in two sizes, 20 ounce and 30 ounce; the 20 ounce is a really nice size for a standard cup of coffee. Each have a plastic, sealed lid like the SIC cup. Where Takeya shines: the size of the cups are good, and the price is right. Where Takeya fails: just not quite the quality of the SIC. It will come down to budget.

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Yeti Rambler tumbler:

We love our Yeti cooler (seriously, if you’re outdoors a lot or road trip often, invest in one), so I was happy to see Yeti come out with an insulated tumbler. The Yeti comes in three sizes; we found the 20 or 30 ounce to be best (the 10 ounce is just too small). It’s very similar to the other two tumblers in this list in design. Where Yeti shines: it’s a name you can trust to keep stuff cold. Where Yeti fails: it’s still not quite as high quality as the SIC, but it IS a bit more affordable.

Pelican SD32 Travel Tumbler:

Pelican’s offering in this category is just as no-nonsense as you’d expect from this rugged brand. We love that that the SD32’s tall, not fat (so it fits in car bottle holders), and it has a copper-plated inner wall. The most unique aspect of the Pelican tumbler, however, is the unique drink lid, which has a slide opening to prevent spillage. Where Pelican shines: this hefty bottle is substantial, and can stand up to lots of wear and tear. It also comes in a 22 ounce version. Where Pelican fails: the colors (silver, black, and green) feel kind of boring. 

If you have a favorite insulated water bottle, let us know in the comments!

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Jet lag: kids get it too! Tips for dealing

On my kids’ first cross-Atlantic journey, we did everything we could to ease the effects of jet lag. We drank a lot of water, got as good a night’s sleep beforehand as possible, and established a ‘bedtime’ on the plane. And everything went well…until our 11-year-old began vomiting as we weaved our way through customs. Not a pleasant story, I know, but nausea is a more common symptom of jet lag than you’d think. Read on for what to watch for, best prevention, and how to deal with jet lag…kids, adults, everyone! 

jet-lag-in-kids

Prevention of jet lag in kids is best:

As noted above, there are steps you can take to help ease the effects of jet lag in kids. Here they are in a nut shell. (And no, we have not found any of the gimmicky natural remedies to work.)

  1. Drink lots of fluids, especially water. We already drink a large amount of water per day at home, so we thought this would be no problem in flight. However, water is only available every so often. Bring your own refillable water containers and stock up in the airport before your flight or flights. Sip often.
  2. Pound the Vitamin C. It helps to stay heathy when dealing with jet lag, and traveling across time zones can really wear out your body. This includes your immune system, and the immune systems of kids. We brought Airborne chewables to take every few hours, plus mandated that kids order at least 1-2 glasses of orange juice during complimentary drink services onboard.
  3. Get sleep the night before. Of course, this is easier said than done if you’re overnighting in an airport hotel or if you have an early morning departure. But do your best. Don’t be tempted to think kids will sleep better on the plane if they skip sleep the night before. An overtired body doesn’t deal with jet lag well.
  4. Bring pillows, eye shades, ear plugs, and a plan for ‘bedtime’. Again…this is easier said than done. We established a time for our kids to stop watching airplane movies at their seat and lean their seats back to try to sleep. It sort of worked. Banning drinks with caffeine in the evening helped.

Dealing with jet lag once you arrive:

  1. Drink more water. Be aware that public drinking fountains may be scarce (we find them much more plentiful in the States than abroad). Be prepared to spend a significant sum on bottled water.
  2. Get Vitamin D, but continue with Vitamin C. Get outside as soon as you can. Take a walk in the neighborhood of your hotel or vacation rental. Avoid going into darker spaces the day you arrive, such as museums or movie theaters.
  3. Put your watches and clocks on local time immediately, and make yourself (and your family) honor it. Yes, it may feel like 3 am to you, but if it’s lunchtime, eat lunch and be as active as possible. Do your best to prevent naps. It’s far better to allow an early bedtime than to allow kids to nap immediately, unless of course, you want to be up all night.
  4. Leave an ‘empty’ morning in your itinerary for the day after you arrive. We’re early risers, but after arriving in Paris at about 3 pm local time and pushing ourselves through to 8 pm before going to bed, we still woke at 8 am. We needed those twelve hours of sleep, so I’m glad I didn’t plan a morning activity.
  5. Consider a sleeping aid for Night 1. We opted to medicate with a mild sleeping pill. This is a personal choice of course, but we found that it helped our older kids fall asleep more easily those first few nights.

jet-lag

A dose of realism: what to look for and expect:

  1. Difficulty getting to sleep: This seems odd, but even if you or the kids feel very tired, it can be hard to get to sleep if your body thinks it’s mid-day. We found this problem persisted for 4-5 days. To combat it, we did move bedtime back (which allowed for some later evenings out), but still forced ourselves to lie in bed with the lights off before we felt tired. After several days, our bodies made the minor adjustment to be truly on schedule. A natural sleeping aid, reading, or a cup of non-caffeinated tea at bedtime helps, if that’s your thing.
  2. Nausea: Our son started feeling nauseous and dizzy on the last leg of our three-leg set of flights. By this time, he’d been awake almost 24 hours, with only a few cat naps. Luckily, we grabbed an air sickness bag from the plane before we disembarked, because he lost his breakfast by the time we were queuing for customs. Not fun, but we dealt with it with water and some fresh air. He felt fully recovered by the time we arrived at our accommodations.
  3. Constipation: Pack an over-the-counter medication of your choice. Check in with kids about their bathroom habits during the first few days. If you have teens, this will embarrass them horribly, which is a fun silver lining.
  4. Headaches: We also brought Tylenol for headaches, which are common while fighting jet lag. Ultimately, sleep and hydration will fix this problem best.

Realistically, you may not be able to prevent young kids, or even teens, from falling asleep upon arrival. We let ours take a nap between shorter flights (we landed in Rome and took a small jet to Paris) but once we had arrived at our final destination, we immediately went outside, grocery shopped, and explored our neighborhood. Were we tired? Goodness yes. Was it hard to deal with the language barrier while fallowing a grocery list in an unfamiliar store with tired kids? Double yes. But it was worth it when we fell into bed that night!

What are your best tips for combatting jet lag? I’d love to hear them in the comments.

Paris day trip: Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields

In each major city we visited during our European trip, we opted to take one long day trip outside the city limits. In Paris, many options for day trips vie for attention, but for our family, a tour of the Normandy D-Day battlefields won out. We have two teens who have studied WWII history, and this tour was their pick.

d-day-beach-tour

Touring Normandy D-Day battlefields:

We opted to go through Viator for our tour,, choosing their Normandy D-Day Battlefields and Beaches tour. One of the most respected and well-known tour companies operating across Europe, we trust Viator to provide a high quality experience. One thing for families to note that many don’t realize: Viator is a middle man. They don’t conduct the tours themselves, but rather outsource them locally. For travelers who expect to be led by a Viator guide from a Viator office, this can be unsettling or even alarming, but I think there’s a good reason behind it: Viator is a huge operation, and cannot be the expert on everything, everywhere. I appreciate that they seek out the best guides within each city. In any case, we had a tour with them in both Paris and Rome, and in both cases, our guides were top-notch.

For the D-Day tour starting and ending in Paris, Viator uses Paris City Vision. We met our group and guide at the Paris City Vision office by the Concorde in Paris at 6:30 am the day of our tour. Yes, painfully early, especially since we’d be late if we waited for the metro. We opted to call a car service so we’d be certain a ride would be ready and waiting for us. (We used Blacklane, which I highly recommend. Read more about our experience with them in this post on planning a Paris itinerary.)

After an easy check-in experience at Paris City Vision, we headed for Normandy on a luxury tour bus. I know, I know, everyone hates big tours in tour busses. But it was fine and I’ll explain why: we never, ever walked all around in a huge group at the sites. Our tour stopped at four locations, and our guide talked to us while the bus was in transit in each case, allowing us to tour as individual families. This is where the value of the tour came in: we didn’t have to figure out our own transportation to and from Normandy, we had all entry tickets taken care of, and we had expert commentary before each stop.

normandy-d-day-museum

The drive to the first stop, which is in Caen, takes almost three hours. Yes, ouch. But we slept, and found the bus very comfortable, with reclining seats and reading lights and a restroom onboard. The first stop on the tour is the Caen-Normandie Memorial museum at the site of a German bunker and stronghold during the French occupation, and covers WWII very much in depth, from pre-war time through the liberation. It does cover the holocaust in detail, so prepare children. In fact, I’d recommend this whole tour only to families with kids age 10 and up. We’d prepared them for D-Day battle details, but didn’t know we’d need to prepare them for some very sad details regarding Jewish ghettos and camps. This part of the museum was too much for our 11-year-old. It’s hard to bypass because exhibits are intermixed, but the area downstairs towards the end of the hall have the most holocaust stories. The violence of the D-Day battles are much less graphic, even in the film…he has no problem with those aspects of the museum.

An included lunch was served in the museum for our group privately. It was a sit-down affair, with a salad bar (French cafeteria style, with a second dessert and cheese station) and main dish. There was not a choice in the main dish. When we visited, it was a rustic French style cuisine of baked chicken or hen. Some of us loved it, others not so much, but there was plenty of food for those who didn’t enjoy the main dish.

The tour then drove us through very pretty Normandy countryside and villages to Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and Juno Beach. Pointe du Hoc is the region on high cliffs scaled by US Rangers and has extensive bunkers and bomb craters to look at and walk through. Omaha Beach has an excellent visitor center (be sure to leave time to go downstairs) and the US cemetery. Juno has the memorial to the Canadian forces and easy beach access.

The picturesque countryside and tiny villages (of which we drove through several) was an added bonus for me on this trip. I had wanted to find a way to explore more of the French countryside, and this way, we got to see some of this without renting a car for the day. Our guide pointed out WWII-related landmarks in and around the villages, such as the hedgerows that cost so many lives as smaller battles were fought through and between them.

d-day-beaches

The entire day was certainly sobering, but also beautiful and impressive. We learned a lot, and as noted above, we had plenty of time for personal reflection and family time during the day, as we spread out from our larger group at each stop. As a family, we were able to decide our own itinerary through each memorial and museum, spending time together and digesting the information together. For families wishing to find a particular memorial marker or name, there is time for this. However, we found that at each stop, we didn’t quite have as much time as we’d like. Certainly, had we been staying in Normandy and had more time, we would have spent at least a half hour more at each stop.

We returned to Paris around 4 pm, stopping for a quick dinner at a service station along the interstate. This meal was on our own, and nothing more than a necessary stop. I was actually glad they hadn’t built in another longer meal, as we were ready to be back in the city by this point. We arrived back at the tour office around 8:30 pm.

Certainly, this tour was a very full day, but our sixteen-year-old lists it as one of the most memorable of our trip. Teens who have studied (or will study) this war will find it fascinating. Our 11-year-old was also old enough to understand and enjoy the tour, though he did get bored a few times. If you go, be prepared for some heavy subjects and hard questions, and do your best to prepare kids ahead of time. As noted above, there’s nothing visually graphic as far as war images go, but the stories and the cemeteries do take their toll. By the last stop at Juno, I will admit all we wanted to do was walk together as a family on the beach.

A few practicalities and pricing info:

Bring books or iPods for kids’ entertainment on the bus, or even a deck of cards. The bus seats have little trays like airplane seats do. I also suggest bringing bottled water, though our guide was great about pointing out where we could buy more along the way. The cost of the tour is on the higher side of Viator’s Paris offerings, due to the length of the tour and distance traveled. We felt the value was definitely there, provided you have older kids or teens.

Book on Viator.com, and print out your confirmation page. That’s all we needed at the tour office. When you book, you’ll receive an email from Viator letting you know which company is conducting your tour and where to meet.

At the time of our visit, pricing was $199 for adults and kids were approximately $99. This price includes all admission fees and lunch, plus the transportation. There’s an option to pay more for hotel pick up/drop off.

As we disclose whenever applicable, our Normandy tour was paid for by Viator, for the purpose of review. All opinions remain our own.

How to plan a Paris itinerary with kids

With its 20 arrondissements connected by a busy metro system, Paris can feel intimating at first. The key to planning a Paris itinerary with kids is to plan your days ahead of time, grouping destinations by proximity and utilizing walking tours to bridge the gaps (figuratively and literally).

paris-itinerary-with-kids

When planning our five days in Paris, I started by making a list of our must-do’s, which included the usual suspects: the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, and d’Orsay. Of course, at this point in my planning, I knew I was missing a lot. To properly fill out my itinerary, I utilized itinerary planning services that offer local recommendations, walking tours, and dining picks. Once I had ‘B list’ destinations and restaurants in the mix, I organized my days based on where we could walk after only one or two metro rides per day. Finally, I bought every ticket possible ahead of time, including Paris Museum Passes, which allowed us to skip every entrance queue we found (and we found quite a few).

Itinerary services we recommend:

Momaboard:

I’ve known the folks at Momaboard for years, and I was thrilled to learn they’d launched their trip planning program. Momaboard pairs traveling families with local experts with kids of their own. After a brief questionnaire about our trip, the ages of our kids, and our interests and goals, our Momaboard expert put together several days’ worth of itineraries for us, including detailed directions, dining recommendations, and fun facts en route.

How I used this information: certainly, families can use the itineraries ‘out of the box’. They’re ready to go. However, since I already had a very loose sketch of our our days would look, I instead mixed and matched the attractions suggested. For instance, our Momaboard itinerary suggested a morning in Montmartre followed by an afternoon near the Eiffel Tower. I did both, but broke them up into two different days. By far the most useful part of our Momaboard itinerary: the dining recs. We are not foodies, and we have hungry teens to feed, and all the restaurant picks were right on target for us.

notre-dame

TraveLove:

We also tried out Travelove on this trip. Similar to Momaboard in that Travelove uses local itinerary-builders and asks families questions ahead of time, Travelove printed us a multipage, bound guidebook with custom itineraries, walking tours, and maps…lots and lots of useful maps. They also put together a journal/activity book for our ten-year-old that included custom-built questions and activities based on our particular itinerary. He had a lot of fun with it.

By far, the best attribute of our Travelove service was the walking tours suggested. They went point-by-point, with great maps and descriptions. For instance, they put together an excellent walk from the Tuileries to the Lourve, which we actually walked in reverse. Starting at the Lourve after our morning there, we walked along the Seine past the booksellers, Latin Quarter, and Notre Dame, learning things along the way.

Here’s what our itinerary looked like by the time we’d implemented both these services and gathered ideas from other guidebooks. (I recommend Rick Steves.) Our must-dos we started with are highlighted.

louvre-with-kids

Day 1:

Metro from our neighborhood in Montmartre to Musee de Lourve. Morning at the Louvre, followed by a walking tour along the river through the Latin Quarter to Notre Dame. Dinner in the Hotel D’Ville area. Metro back ‘home’ in time to walk to Sacre Coeur at night to watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle.

Day 2:

Metro from our neighborhood to the Eiffel Tower area, where we booked a morning Fat Tire Tour of the Concorde and Invalides area. (See separate post.) Lunch at street vendors under the tower, followed by a stop at a creperie recommended by Momaboard. Timed tickets to go up the Eiffel Tower at sunset.

fat-tire-tours

Day 3:

Metro from our neighborhood to the d’Orsay Museum, followed by a shorter stint in the Rodin courtyard (recommended by a tour guide). Built-in ‘free’ afternoon; we spent it watching the new Star Wars movie followed by a visit to the Paris catacombs.

Day 4:

Toured the area near the Arc d’Triumph and Champs Elysees, including dining recommendations from Momaboard. We concluded our day with a boat tour along the Seine, and explored the seasonal Christmas markets. Almost all of this day was built out based on local recommendations.

Day 5:

Viator tour through Normandy to see D-Day beaches and museums (see separate post).

paris-metro-tips

Getting around:

We used the Paris metro system exclusively. We found it very easy to use once we got our bearings, with good signage and multiple stops. Each day, we hopped on the metro from our Montmartre neighborhood (Chateau Rogue stop) and rode it multiple times per day. To do this, we found multi-day metro passes to be crucial (see below).

A word on the Paris Museum Pass:

The Paris Pass allows families to skip the long lines at museums, and gives parents the freedom to plan shorter museum visits (with the pass, it’s no big deal if you only spend 30 minutes checking out 2-3 major works). Kids are free at almost all museums (18 and under) which is wonderful, but if they don’t have a kids’ Paris Pass, you’ll still need to wait in line to get them a ticket (silly, I know). Because the Paris Pass comes included with a multi-day metro pass, it may be worth it to pay for kids’ passes along with adults, so everyone can skip the lines. Without these passes, we would have waited over an hour to get into the Lourve and Notre Dame each (instead we walked in immediately). Look for the Paris Pass or advanced tickets queue, or ask for it. Note: a few locations indicate they ‘don’t guarantee line skipping’, such as Notre Dame. I asked the guard at the start of the line politely if we needed to wait in line, showing our Paris Pass, and he waved us right in.

General tips:

Seek out the less touristy cafes and food carts, but not at the expense of hunger. After hours in the Lourve, we knew we should go in search of a crepe or baguette, but everyone was hungry and tired and ready to revolt if we walked in the wrong direction. The museum cafe sufficed (and actually had very good takeaway sandwiches).

Give kids spending money: there are so many tempting treats as you walk along the streets in Paris, you’ll be saying ‘no’ every ten minutes if you’re asked to open your wallet that often. Give kids money of their own to spend on tasty but small change treats such as macarons, eclairs, and crepes.

What are your best tips for touring Paris with kids?

Holidays away from home: Tips for preparing kids

At least every other year, we travel during the holiday season. This means my kids are pretty accustomed to celebrating holidays away from home, and as a parent, I’m pretty good at making Christmas special…wherever we are. This year, we’ll be celebrating Christmas Day in Italy. In the days leading up to the holiday, we’ll be renting a HomeAway apartment in Paris. Here’s how we’ll celebrate the holidays away from home:

holidays-away

Think of your trip as a gift in itself:

Older kids and teens should be able to appreciate that a family trip during the holidays costs money and can be considered a gift in its own right. To help kids take ownership of this gift, allow them to plan a portion of your vacation, pick one special activity each, or otherwise engage in the planning process. Spend a day doing each child’s special outings or attractions, if possible. As an alternative idea, gift kids souvenir money (in the currency of the destination) and don’t put any restrictions on how they spend it.

Help kids feel oriented by ‘rerouting’ Santa:

A recent study by HomeAway has shown that 84% of families will spend the holidays together. But traveling to be with family can have its difficulties. It’s hard to change the way gift-giving works in your family if you have Santa believers among you. And kids can feel genuine worry that Santa ‘won’t find them’, causing unnecessary stress during a happy vacation. HomeAway has solved this problem with their ‘Rerouting Santa’ microsite. Check it out: RerouteSanta.com. Just tell Santa where you’ll be, and he’ll find you!

Consider gift-giving in a new way:

For our upcoming trip, we simply won’t have room in our carry-on luggage to bring gifts halfway around the world. Instead, our school-aged kids (and we parents) will be gift-giving on the go. We’ll each draw a family member’s name, and shop for them while we travel. We’re focusing on smaller, stocking-stuffer type gifts in order to keep the ‘stuff’ we haul around manageable. If you have more space, such as a car trunk, you could adapt this system to include larger gifts.

Alternatively, parents can gift kids with one smaller gift per day during their trip, instead of all gifts on Christmas morning. For those celebrating Hanukkah, this ‘new’ system will feel even easier to implement. Gift kids with small toys, crafts, goodies, and games they’ll use during your travels.

Bring holiday decorations:

I love bringing decorations with me on trips when possible…so much so that we have an entire post on decorating your home rental, condo, or hotel room. It’s especially easy to decorate a HomeAway house for the holidays: ask the home owner if there’s a stash of holiday decor you can access…chances are they’ll leave them out for you or decorate before your arrival. We like to bring small strings of lights operated on battery pack (these can even be adorned to strollers or backpacks!).

Ask your home owner for seasonal events and tips:

We asked our Parisian hosts for their top holiday events in Paris, and almost immediately, I received an emailed list of events and happenings during our stay. Inspired, we did the same for our Italian hosts! Plan to attend at least a few holiday events in your destination to add cheer and keep ‘normalcy’ for kids who are used to plenty of seasonal hoopla in their home town. Some of the best activities include parades, holiday window shopping, and light displays.

What terrorism won’t take from me

As many readers know, we plan to travel to Paris next month. I’ll be very honest: current events have us unsettled and saddened on many levels, including, of course, the impact on our trip plans. Here is why we’re still going.

paris-france

Terrorism won’t take my love of travel. A few, cowardly, misguided, damaged people won’t steal the joy I feel researching trips, complete with Google Maps and Rick Steves guidebooks scattered across my dining room table, TripIt open on my screen. Terrorism won’t take my children’s excitement upon holding a boarding pass in their hands, or their view of clouds and city lights and oceans and sunlight from their window in 32B or 18A. It won’t take our enthusiasm to try that talked-about Parisian cafe or our laughter when we stumble over new words and order the wrong thing. It won’t succeed in keeping our passports locked in a filing cabinet at home.

Terrorism won’t take my kids’ global citizenship. It won’t stop them from feeling wide-eyed awe at the sight of the Eiffel Tower or their amazement at glimpsing a Rodin or a Monet. It won’t take the smiles from their faces as they meet kids who are just like them, except that they dress differently and speak differently and eat different foods. It won’t stop my boys from joining pick-up games of soccer in Manhattan parks or conducting paper airplane-making sessions over the seat back of an international flight. It won’t stop them from making that mind-blowing connection that the kid in the school uniform in Costa Rica is just like all the kids they know, scrambling to get his homework done on the bus. Or that the mother stopping to comfort her fussy baby in a cafe in Brussels is just like their mother, and the mothers of all their friends back at home. And that the fathers are like their fathers, the brothers like their brothers.

statue of liberty

Terrorism won’t take my optimism that people are good and the world is beautiful. It won’t succeed in polarizing my family; we will not see terrorist acts as foreign problems or regional problems, but as global problems. We won’t hide at home, pretending we’re safer here than anywhere else. Terrorism won’t make me hate or suspect or fear based on a person’s religion or looks or language.

Terrorism won’t take my compassion. It won’t harden my heart to the suffering, the hurt, and the struggles both in my city and in my world. It won’t succeed in making me circle the wagons. It won’t stop me from saying ‘yes’ to my teens’ service trip to build homes for those who sleep on the ground, or my child’s desire to send aid money to those who are hungry or displaced or in the wrong place at the wrong time. It won’t stop me and mine from realizing that families are families everywhere, parents do their best everywhere, and children have the right to feel safe and healthy everywhere. Not just here. Not just me.

rappel into cenote

Terrorism won’t take our memories. It won’t take our round-the-dinner-table stories of past trips, like the time we saw a glacier calve in Southeast Alaska or the time Dad fell asleep on the bus in Spain or the time Mom saw someone try to pee on Stonehenge. It won’t make us look back on seeing the wonders of the Washington Monument cast in the glow of Independence Day fireworks or the twinkle of holiday lights on Champs Elysées or the Statue of Liberty against a perfect blue sky glimpsed from the deck of a ferry. It won’t take cozy pubs in Dublin or family photos at Mt. Rainier or tours of Pompeii. It can’t have the taste of pastel-hued macarons or chocolate crepes or poutine. It doesn’t get to take local wine or medieval castles or orca sightings or museum openings or cenote rappelling.

Because that’s ours. And yours. And all the other citizens’ of the world.

Don’t let terrorism take that from you.

Looking to help? Check out this post on Trekaroo with trusted donation ideas!

 

why-travel

 

A week stay at Three Bars Ranch, British Columbia

There are beautiful resorts and vacation properties all over the world. The best start with a stunning destination, then add experiences, dining, and activities in a way that feeds both a sense of adventure and the need for relaxation. Then there are a few truly special, tucked-away places that manage to do all of the above, plus add a certain something that take them over-the-top for family travel. What is this secret sauce? It’s hard to say, but you know it when you experience it: it’s genuine, organic, and rooted in excellent guest service. These magical places make our top 1% of destination reviews.

three-bars-ranch

The Three Bars Ranch in the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia is one of these places. One of the top 1% ones. One of the cream of the crop ones. They don’t get this rating from us by offering the most luxurious accommodations we’ve ever seen (we’ve seen nicer). They don’t get it from serving gourmet food. They don’t get it with a Michelin rating or a bunch of diamonds after their name in the guidebooks. They get it by being themselves, which is an authentic guest dude ranch with a long-standing family history, and by doing for guests: if it’s on your bucket list and can be done in the Rockies, they’ll make it happen.

three-bars-ranch

We’ve now reviewed multiple dude ranches, and our standard advice continues to be: know what you want before you book, then book accordingly. Some dude ranches we’ve experienced focus almost exclusively on their riding program, and are best for experienced riders. Others are more like B&Bs or farm stays. Three Bars Ranch wins in the ‘all-round best for everyone’ category, but after staying for a week, I urge families not to think of it as a dude ranch.

week-stay-three-bars-ranch

Instead, think of Three Bars as an all-inclusive Canadian holiday, or as a family camp. With rafting, mountain biking, sport shooting, tennis, swimming, fly fishing, hiking, and golf in addition to its riding program, Three Bars truly does have something for everyone. But it’s more than that: remember the secret sauce? Three Bars manages to offer all of the above, and do so seamlessly, in a way that makes families feel relaxed, welcome, and comfortable both with the ranch staff and with each other. Trust us: not all dude ranches achieve this.

What to expect at Three Bars Ranch:

Like most dude ranches, families typically book at week at Three Bars. We arrived on a Sunday in late June, pulling up to the ranch house, barn, and other structures at about 4 pm. We were greeted by two of our wranglers at the main lodge, and shown to our cabin, one of about 20 circling the lodge on a grassy court. We settled in, and explored the grounds.

three-bars-ranch

Three Bars is situated on over 1200 acres of pasture, forests, and mountainsides, plus uses an additional 60,000 acres of leased land in the heart of the Canadian Rockies along the St. Mary’s River. The ranch property includes the main lodge where we checked in, the cabins, tennis courts, an indoor swimming pool and hot tub, an activities barn with mountain bikes, and the horse padlocks and barns. Right away, it was clear that we were to consider this property ‘ours’ during our stay, and immediately, the kids felt comfortable wandering (as did we). They found the ping-pong and foosball tables, the pool table in the bar (open to youth players), the cozy gazebo, and the petting ‘zoo’, which is a true manaserie of animals all in need of lots of petting and holding (including a donkey, pigmy goat, pony, chickens, kittens, and goats).

cabins-three-bars-ranch

After a Sunday evening meet-and-greet, welcome dinner, and orientation, daily life at the ranch settles into a routine. Every day, a bulletin board will list the day’s schedule, which will always include a morning and afternoon horse ride, breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and an evening activity. Alternative afternoon activities are always offered: whether it be a scheduled rafting trip or a specifically arranged fly fishing trip, ATV ride, or mountain bike trip. Every morning, head wrangler (and ranch owner) Tyler Beckley comes around to each breakfast table to arrange the day’s activities for each family. This is the time for families to choose which type of ride to go on, or what alternative activity to schedule. As the week wore on, we, like many families, met friends and arranged to ride and play together, asking for teen rides, group rides, and ladies only rides. All were easily arranged.

animals-three-bars-ranch

Our typical day (Mon-Fri at the ranch) started by barely waking up in time for 8 am breakfast (unheard of for us, early-risers!), taking a morning ride of our choice (usually a fast ride while the kids rode with friends, or a family ride), coming back for lunch and a little break, an afternoon activity, which alternated between another ride or a different activity (one afternoon we went target shooting, another we went rafting), then down time in the late afternoon.

target-shooting

We filled this time by swimming in the pool, playing ping-pong or tennis, riding a bike along the trails, or just sitting on the porch of our cabin with a glass of wine.

Our family especially love riding bikes along the single track horse trails and many dirt roads and ATV trails around the ranch; bikes are available in the activities barn (the smallest being 17″ during our visit…a good size for a 10-year-old or up). From the barn area, trails can be accessed easily, either from the pastures or the trails past the large reining barn. We also swam and played tennis, and other families went fly fishing (equipment is available to use) and ATV riding (extra fee).

The ranch bar opens each day at 5 pm, and families tend to gather there to compare notes on the day. Kids order smoothies and play pool, and adults relax over a beer or cocktail. Dinner is at 6:30, followed by an evening activity, always with the wranglers, who also eat meals with guests and socialize naturally with everyone.

rafting-three-bars-ranch

Evening activities during our stay ranged from a reining horse demonstration by horse trainer Jessie Buckley to a volleyball match and a cowboy guitar entertainer. Because it doesn’t get dark in summer in this part of the world until almost 11 pm, the kids tended to play on the lawns or soak in the hot tub until well after 9 pm, with lights out for our crew of school-aged and teen kids well past bedtime.

The Three Bars riding program:

If I had to pick one part of the Three Bars Ranch that is at the heart of the stay, it would be the riding program, though I want to emphasize again that this ranch is about so much more than riding. That said, compared to riding programs at dude ranches we’ve visited that have more of a ‘riding is everything’ attitude, Three Bars is still very much on par.

saddling

The riding is incredible. The horses are very well trained and responsive, and to a person, the wranglers were friendly, competent, and helpful. During our visit, there was a very even mix of ability level on horseback, with about 1/3 of the riders considering themselves novices, 1/3 experienced riders who don’t ride often, and 1/3 frequent riders. On Day 1, everyone was introduced to their horse, pre-selected based on a questionnaire asking for experience level. Every one of the 30+ guests were happy with their horses during our stay.

trail-ride

The first day, everyone I spoke to began by walking only, with wranglers keeping a careful eye on ability level and horse/rider compatibility. We didn’t mind, even though we were eager to trot and lope our horses, because the first ride was a great opportunity to get to know the area and see some of the scenery away from the ranch proper. By our second ride (afternoon of Day 1), our family was trotting, and by Day 2, we were loping (by request…this is not necessary). At another ranch we’d visited, rides started out fast and furious…great for experienced riders but uncomfortable for those who ride only occasionally.

wranglers-three-bars

On subsequent days, we verbalized what type of ride we wanted during the morning check-in with Tyler, whether it be a walking ride, ride with plenty of breaks and play time for kids, medium ride (with trotting and some loping), or fast ride (with more bouts of loping). We rode with our family unit and also with new friends. I absolutely love riding, so I greatly enjoyed the riding program, but individuals who would rather pursue other actives could absolutely do so. My kids loved having their ‘own’ horses for the week, and bonded with them quickly. In fact, even though 13-year-old Calvin, who liked riding fast, ended up with a very slow horse, he didn’t want to switch…he’d learned to love slow Chico!

chico

Dining at Three Bars:

Meals are served at 8 am, noon, and 6:30 pm at Three Bars, and the food is always good. Occasionally during our stay, it was only ok, and sometimes, it was amazing. Full disclosure: I’m not a foodie. Especially during a vacation where we work up such an appetite, I’d honestly rather have good food, and plenty of it, than great food, in tiny, fancy portions.

dining-three-bars

At Three Bars, you get the former. We had no complaints, and always had our fill. The dining staff did an excellent job accommodating my pescetarian dietary needs, as well as others’ gluten-free needs. They can accommodate any type of need, with advanced warning. Breakfast included staples such as egg dishes, hash browns, pancakes, and granola, and there was always cereal, fruit, yogurt, and toast. Coffee was average (if you’re a coffee connoisseur, bring your own!) and water, tea, and coffee was always set out during the day.

Lunch ranged from sandwich fixings to make-your-own-burrito bars, always with freshly-baked cookies and side salads. Dinners ranged from ribs to herb chicken to Italian pastas, always with something for everyone. If you come expecting gourmet fare, you’ll be disappointed, but if your primarily goal is to be served hearty fare, you’ll go away happy. We had brought snacks for our room, but never needed them.

Lodging at Three Bars:

The cabins at Three Bars are very comfortable, visually beautiful, and convenient. Each has a TV with plenty of channels (though we hardly ever turned ours on), coffee service, a full bathroom with tub, WiFi (a godsend since I had to work during the stay), and very cozy beds with high-end linens.

lodging-thee-bars

There are different cabin configurations, but we ended up with two connecting rooms (one with three beds for the kids and a queen bed for me), giving us two bathrooms. Rooms have mini-fridges and cabinet space for snacks, plus plenty of closet space for riding gear and outerwear. Each cabin has a porch with table and chairs out front, all overlooking the main lawn and lodge.

What to know before you go:

st-marys-river

  • Everyone will need riding boots. The good news: boots can be rented from the ranch for $30/stay. This is a great value if you have older kids, as boots are expensive.
  • Everyone will want a cowboy hat. They have them for sale in the store for a reasonable price. We had our ahead of time.
  • Kids under 12 must wear a riding helmet. I felt great about this rule.
  • Remember you’ll need passports or copies of the kids’ birth certificates to get across the Canadian border.
  • Once at the ranch, you don’t need cash other than gratuity. All extra charges will go on a room charge. Tip should be 5-10% of the cost of the vacation, and can be given at the end of the stay.
  • The activities that are not all-inclusive include ATV-riding, shooting, fly fishing, golf, and alcohol from the bar.
  • All riding levels are accommodated. Don’t worry about lack of experience, or having too much experience.
  • The wrangler staff are primarily young people from Canada and Australia. All are wonderful, and will make your kids feel special.
  • Activities such as mountain biking, fishing, golf, and ATV riding can be scheduled at any time. Shooting sports and rafting are scheduled for set times.
  • Kids can participate in shooting sports, regardless of experience. As non-gun-owners, we felt the experience was very safe and positive, with an emphasis on respect for guns.
  • Bring several pairs of jeans per person, and plan to do laundry!
  • Expect to miss your horse when you leave!

We experienced Three Bars Ranch as guests of the ranch, for the purpose of review. All opinions are our own.

Multi-day kayaking in the San Juan Islands

Families will always see more detail of the area they’re traveling by car rather than by plane, and even more by bicycle than by car. In the San Juan Islands, there’s no better way to explore this vast network of islands than by kayak.

overnight-kayaking

On our previous trips to the San Juan Islands, we arrived by ferry, then visited two islands: Orcas and San Juan. This time, we decided we were ready for the bigger adventure of a multi-day kayak trip in the San Juan Islands, camping on remoter islands en route. We embarked with Crystal Seas Kayak, setting out on a perfectly sunny June morning. For two nights and three days, nothing stood between us and the tides, islands, sea, and sky.

What to expect on a Crystal Seas Kayak trip:

After booking our Crystal Seas trip, we were emailed a detailed packing list and FAQs, so we’d know what to bring. In a nutshell, we needed personal items such as clothing, sleeping bags, headlamps, sun protection, and toiletries. Crystal Seas provided everything else, including all food (and meal preparation), tents, sleeping pads, kayaks, and of course, guidance in the form of two guides.

crystal-seas

We met our guides, Brett and Corey, at a designated pick-up location on San Juan Island. This location is usually the ferry dock at Friday Harbor, but Crystal Seas will work with you if a different pick-up location is more convenient. Both Brett and Corey are local to the islands; having grown up in the San Juans, they knew all the ins and outs of the many islands, currents, and tide flows. We were happy to spend three days with both of them.

We shuttled by van to our put-in spot, the San Juan County Park campground and kayak launch on the east side of the island. We transferred our gear to dry bags, and learned how to load our sea kayaks (they’re like clown cars…it’s amazing how much gear fits!). We headed off by mid-morning, paddling to adjacent Henry Island for our first lunch. We then continued across a few miles of open water to reach Stuart Island, our home for the next two nights.

kayaking-san-juans

We paddled approximately 14 miles from our launch site on San Juan Island, but we took most of the day to do it, stopping to look at interesting sites in our kayaks and taking occasional land breaks. As an occasional kayaker (not a total newbie), I didn’t find the distance too strenuous, but we did find it satisfyingly challenging.

Our kids, ages 16, 13, and 10, fared just as well, if not better, than me and my mom, who joined us for this multi-generational trip. The paddling was less challenging for the teens of course, but it was crucial that they listen to instructions by our guides, because while the water looks calm in this part of the Salish Sea most of the time, the currents and tides are to be respected. Without our guides, we absolutely would have made big mistakes, even though we could see land of some sort at all times.

The ‘marine trail’ campsites at Stuart Island’s Reid Harbor are dedicated for human-powered watercraft only, which means kayaks, not motorboats, sailboats, or yachts. The latter can anchor in the bay, and we enjoyed seeing all the watercraft there, but appreciated that the campsites were more isolated, tucked away in the trees just past the beach.

We set up camp before dinner, each group of two finding a spot for their tent and setting it up. We explored the beach and dock, the kids taking a swim (brrr!) and spotting seals, sea stars, and seabirds of all sorts. After appetizers (yes, really!), we sat down to a dinner of salmon, freshly mashed potatoes, and salad with local greens and homemade dressing. Dessert was a pecan pie brought from a local bakery in San Juan (more on food later).

kayaking-crystal-seas

 

We settled in for the night by 10 pm (when it starts getting dark at this time of year), and while I woke at first light, the kids all slept in. We planned to remain camped in cozy Reid Harbor, taking a day paddle to explore nearby islands and hike. We enjoyed this more leisurely day, but Brett and Corey also offered an alternative itinerary, which would have included packing up and camping at another island, Jones. While Crystal Seas has a general itinerary set for each trip, we found there was a lot of flexibility when possible.

stuart-island

Our Day 2 included a beautiful paddle around Johns Island, where we floated past a colony of seals and looked for orcas in the strait (no luck this time!). We picnicked lunch on a tiny island (I’m sure it has a name, but I don’t know it, and my map shows it only as a speck!), then paddled ‘home’ to Reid Harbor, where we rested (and they kids played on the beach) before our hike up the nearest ridge to view the islands from 800 feet above sea level. This may have been one of my favorite moments on the trip: the view looked like the most perfect 3D map of the islands I could have asked for. In the sunlight under a blue sky, we could see all the way to the Olympics in one direction and Mt. Baker in the other. We spotted all the islands we’d paddled by, and Brett and Corey pointed out Roche Harbor, on the east side of San Juan. It looked surprisingly close, which is a lesson we learned kayaking in this area: distances are very hard to gauge on the water.

san-juans

We enjoyed another amazing meal, then rewarded the kids with a full buffet of s’mores ingredients. Our teens loved making campfires each night, and having the freedom to explore the campsites and nearby trails.

One of the things that makes backcountry trips, of any sort, so special for our family is the together-time. Without electronics, friends, or schedules in the way, the kids play together like they used to when they had less responsibilities and less social life. This trip was no different. Our youngest got his brothers back, and the teens got their childhood back.

They made swords out of sticks, skipped pebbles, spotted schools of fish, jumped off the dock, and wrestled on fallen logs. In other words, they had untethered ‘boy’ time.

reid-harbor-camping

Our last day, we packed up camp early, in order to paddle back to San Juan with the current in our favor. Thank goodness for Brett and Corey, who know these things! We paddled hard the distance back, with few breaks, necessary in this direction, but again, it felt satisfying to accomplish a hard day’s paddle in just a morning! We picnicked lunch back at the put-in spot, then shuttled back to our car. Looking out over the view of the Salish Sea while we ate our last meal together, we weren’t quite ready to leave!

Food on Crystal Seas trips:

In a word, the food is fantastic. We’ve been on several multi-day rafting and kayaking trips, and the food is always good, but Crystal Seas takes it a step further, serving as many local foods as possible. I’d estimate 70% of the foods served were locally sourced or grown. In addition to our salmon meal, we had a wonderful meal of beef and veggie tacos, plus lunches of caprice sandwiches and salmon wraps and breakfasts of bagel sandwiches and yogurt parfaits. There was always fresh fruit, fresh veggies, and snacks like organic chips, top quality trail mix and bars, and spread and dips.

crystal-seas-food

Note: no alternatives to the meal served were offered to children, so if you have a pick eater, let them know ahead of time. They absolutely accommodate all dietary needs, so I’m sure they could accommodate a child who needs a simpler meal. Our teens ate everything in sight, and our 10-year-old like 90% of the meals, but would have been happy with a plain PB&J a few times.

Helpful planning tips:

If you book at multi-day kayak trip with Crystal Seas, here are a few tricks and tips we learned along the way:

  • If you have a car, but you’ve checked out of your accommodations, park at the courthouse parking lot in Friday Harbor. We parked here on recommendation of Crystal Seas, and our car was secure without a parking fee. They picked us up here, too.
  • Organize your gear the night before. While you won’t have your dry bags until you’re at the put-in spot, you don’t want to be organizing your gear from your suitcase or duffle full of clothes at the dock. We set aside all the clothing and personal items we’d need for each person, and packed them in one large packing cube per person. They we only had to transfer the packing cube to the dry bag.
  • You’ll get a separate dry bag for your sleeping bag. The best type to bring is a lightweight down or down alternative bag, which packs down smaller than a camping bag.
  • Don’t forget any medications you might need. We all needed allergy medication during the trip, and luckily we had it with us. The guides will have a medical kit, so we probably could have left ours in the car.
  • Be prepared to get dirty! The campsites are rustic, and there are no showers (though there is a composting toilet at the campground). We brought Wilderness Wipes with us to freshen up a few times.
  • Be prepared for all weather. We lucked out with three perfect days, but we all had rain jackets and down sweaters with us, as well as gloves and beanie knit hats for everyone. On the flip side, we also had sunglasses (a must on the water!) and sun hats.
  • You’ll have a ‘skirt’ on in the kayak, keeping your lower half dry, so don’t worry about being wet and cold while paddling. Arms will get a bit wet from the paddles, but if it makes you cold, wear a rain jacket under your life vest.
  • Don’t forget to tip your guides. Our worked so hard…they definitely deserved it!

Disclosure: we experienced Crystal Seas on a media rate, for the purpose of review. As always, all opinions are our own.

Wet Planet Whitewater adventure rafting near Columbia River Gorge

Julie Henning runs Road Trips for Families, a resource for families love to get out on the open road and let their adventures unfold. 

Fed by underground aquifers and the glacial melt of nearby Mount Adams, the second-tallest mountain in Washington State, the White Salmon River never runs dry. A brisk 40 degrees, anyone venturing out on the river encouraged to wear a wetsuit, booties, fleece, a splash jacket and anything but cotton.

white-salmon

Running fast and high in the spring melt, the river was generating between Class I and Class IV rapids when I embarked on a half-day rafting adventure with Wet Planet Whitewater in mid-April. Wet Planet Whitewater is a rafting and kayaking outfitter located in Husum, Washington just off the Columbia Gorge Natural Scenic Area near Hood River, Oregon.

After receiving safety instruction and practicing paddling techniques on terra firma, our group of four women and one guide dropped into the middle of the rapids six miles upstream at the BZ Corner launch site. Thrilling as much as invigorating, we passed under majestic pines and along waterfalls tumbling into the river canyon that was once a lava tube (in fact, we made a brief stop into a shallow basalt cave formed by lava as it cooled millions of years ago).

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Depending on the time of year the White Salmon River runs faster or slower (but never dry). In the summer months, groups may have the opportunity to make a 10-food drop down Husum Falls. Too dangerous during our visit, we gladly made a small portage around the falls as the rafts were roped downriver—a group of kayakers received our collective cheers as we watched them plummet through this rocky passage.

At this point in the trip, true thrill seekers may opt to jump into calmer waters from atop the Husum Street Bridge. If you decide to mark this off your bucket list, keep in mind the water temperature and know you might be chilly until the sun dries your clothes.

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Immediately following Husum Falls and the bridge jumping is “the rattlesnake,” a series of rapids where Rattlesnake Creek runs into the White Salmon River. It’s here where rafters have the opportunity to “ride the bull,” a maneuver where everyone moves to the front edge of the raft and plunges feet-first into a concave wave of whitewater. Our guide described this experience as nature’s nasal cleanse and I ended up swallowing and then spitting out a giant gulp of the river.

Wet Planet Whitewater photographers meet up with the rafts at different points along the river and capture groups mid-adventure. The sequence of before/during/after shots of our group “riding the bull” were my favorite (for a laugh, click through some of the shots posted on the Wet Planet Whitewater flickr stream).

The remaining two miles of the eight-mile run remained scenic, but a bit calmer (more waterfalls, majestic pines, red tail hawks circling from above). Our guide explained how the area was impacted by recent flooding and talked about the history and controversy around the removal of a dam that transformed Northwestern Lake into Northwestern Park (and, consequently, led to a resurgence of salmon and steelhead populations in the White Salmon River).

Traveling back to Wet Planet Whitewater by van, we changed into dry clothes and reviewed the photos of our trip. Visitors in the summer months are encouraged to linger over a burger and a beverage on the shaded deck of the Wet Planted Whitewater café. Day-trips include a riverside lunch, but it’s still fun to linger and recount the day’s adventure.

Worth noting is the minimum age requirement for the half-day trip (rafters must be ten and older, and sometimes sixteen or eighteen depending on the trip). That said, Wet Planet Whitewater offers outdoor programs, adventure camps, and youth kayak camps specifically designed with kids in mind.

Please enjoy this video, embedded with photos and sound from our adventure on the White Salmon River. Special thanks to our Instructor and Trip Leader Giani Benevento for his interview and insight.

 

 

 

 

Date last visited: April 2015

 

Distance from the interstate: 15 minutes from Highway 84/downtown Hood River, Oregon. Note: You will need $1 to cross the Hood River Bridge between Oregon and Washington.

 

Pricing: Pricing varies based on the length and duration of the trip (note the minimum age requirements). I participated on the $65/person Half Day trip on the White Salmon River. Food is available seasonally at the Wet Planet Café.

 

Accommodations: Lodging is available in Hood River. For families, the best bet is the Hood River Inn or a vacation home available through the Oak Street Hotel.

 

Directions: Wet Planet Whitewater is located at 860 Highway 141 in Husum, Washington. From Oregon Highway 84 take the Button Bridge Road exit and cross over the Columbia River on the Hood River Bridge. In Washington State, take the first left onto State Highway 14 (Lewis and Clark Highway) and then turn right onto State Highway 141. Continue 6 miles on 141. Wet Planet Whitewater is located on the right-hand side of the road.

 

I received a complimentary half-day rafting trip on the White Salmon River from Wet Planet Whitewater for the purposes of this review. All opinions are my own.